Silversmith Black Lager. Available at LCBO $3.65/473ml and at the brewery in Niagara-on-the-Lake. 

I probably have to shift some beers that are on the cusp of not being seasonal. This includes your Stouts, Porters, Tmavys, and Schwarzbiers. You’d be surprised how the last two categories have taken on a life of their own. A little Czech influence (assisted ably by the trade mission of the Czech consulate) and a healthy resistance to trend have really opened up the field. This is a good thing. Variety is the spice of life and I like it spicy. 

Silversmith’s Black Lager has been a presence in the province for a decade at this point. That seems ridiculous, but on ratebeer there’s Joe McPhee smiling back at me, July 2012. From Burger Bar no less. I’ve always felt that people treat it a little like Black Oak Nut Brown in that it’s a great example of the style that has sort of faded into the background a little bit by remaining predominantly an LCBO presence. Silversmith has been undergoing a lengthy expansion that necessitated the digging of a hole behind their ecclesiastical taproom. Is it complete? That would be an ecumenical matter. Plans to expand their presence are already underway, although possibly under wraps.

Sometimes people will use espresso as a descriptor, but this is a well pulled dark roasted shot with some acidic complexity. There’s a touch of smoke that follows on from the depth of malt character. Browning toasted malt tickling burnt. There’s rich chocolate syrup and the minor hint of a rich red berry and the head retention has provided me with crema coloured lace. 

Frequently I’ll assess things with different sip sizes and the bitterness here comes through on a gulp. It’s only after you’ve introduced it to your palate that you start to nose bitterness because it lingers on the palate, waiting to transform the liquid in the glass. Some touch of wet wood and fresh oregano. What it doesn’t manage to do, despite the connotation of chocolate syrup, is develop much in the way of body weight. This is sessionable, which is necessary for a flagship beer. It’s not only lovely, but it’s confident in its personality.

I have to say I prefer the Helles, but I nearly always do. 

Did You Buy This Beer?: Nope. Handed to me by James, who’s now Sheriff in those parts.

Knowing What You Know Now, Would You Buy This Beer?: I think even in summer this would be a good choice if it were served properly cold. Any other time of year I’d think $3.65 is a good value, so that’s a yes from me. 

Did You Finish It?: Plan on doing it. Got my 10,000 steps in.