Sawdust City Kraslice Czech Dark Lager. Part of a Lager Series 4 Pack from the Sawdust City Online Shop. $14.60/4x473ml in different Czech inspired flavours.

One of the things I like about Sawdust City is Sam Corbeil’s endless willingness to experiment. The business does a nice volume trade through the LCBO, but the seasonal beers are good enough people look forward to them, and the one-offs are good enough that sometimes people clamour for a repeat performance. It’s a long way since he was giving me a lift to the Streetsville GO from Niagara College, but Sam hasn’t really changed much. Still a generous man. 

This is reflected in my favourite thing about the package I received: The liner notes. In here he gives credit to his staff who designed beers for the four pack. Jimbo has designed a Svetly Lezak, Jon has decided to take a crack at the title by cloning Pilsner Urquell, and Tyler’s gone for a Czech Amber Lager. Many breweries don’t take the time to acknowledge the staff, let alone give them credit for their projects. I like that a lot. Brewing is hard work, and while I’m sure they’re paid well, credit should be part of the compensation package. 

That leaves me with Sam’s beer to review, and it’s a Tmavy. A Dark Czech Lager. Brave, because the two commercial examples are from Czechvar and Godspeed, so rocking up to this must come with joy for the challenge, but also apprehension. 

I’ve left this in the fridge for what must be a month, and over that time the beer has developed a small vinous character, a hint of grape in the grain and a small touch of souring acidity on the nose. Compared to a Schwarzbier, especially a new world one, this is more likely to have mid range malt like Munich that will add that dark fruit, but here the age has added a little interest. The light chocolate character is about as far towards depth of roast as this goes.

Compared to the Silversmith from last time, it’s not espresso so much as the sole sour Glosette raisin in the box. On the palate, instead of roast, rich black bread. The perception of sweetness abates from the nose and on the second sip the spiciness of the Saaz hops come through, becoming texturally drying, although there’s a touch of lip smackin’ saccharine at the end. On the fourth sip the Saaz comes through with a touch of berry, and although that is uncharacteristic, what else could it be? An ester? Revisiting aroma that black pepper and citrus are reassuring. Some things are sacrosanct. 

Did You Buy This Beer?: Showed up one day without warning, like Stagger Lee or the Grim Reaper.

Knowing What You Know Now, Would You Buy This Beer?: Level with you. I don’t think it’s as good as the Czechvar Dark or the Godspeed Tmavy, but that is not damning this with faint praise. Those are both excellent, and this is hopefully a work in progress we’ll see again. I’d say you should buy the four pack because it works out to about $3.65 a can and gives you a nice overview of Czech styles, which are going to be around for a while due to their elegant simplicity and small hop budget. 

Did You Finish It?: As I write this the Leafs are in the third period, so, yes.