I went to Deschutes a couple of times in my journey. It was after my second dinner there that I realized I might be the wrong person for this assignment, as I had spent around $40 on beer the entire trip and $120 at Powell’s Books.
I sent him to Portland to drink beer, and I get pictures of bookstores? Points for literacy, I guess.
Deschutes is a jewel in Portland’s Pearl District. The brewery has been around since 1988, but the Portland brewpub was only opened in 2008. It looks new; the wood that dominates the décor gleams fresh and new.
Walking in the door, I am greeted by three hosts. Take that, Rogue! Unlike my previous Portland trip, I was immediately seated. Apparently, it’s less busy at 5 pm than it is at 7:30 pm. Still, the pub was at 85% capacity. This is a popular place.
There are many menus, including the food menu, the beer menu (highlighting what’s on tap with their ABV, IBU, tasting profile, and some background), the specials menu, and a gluten-free menu.
The food is good, but not exceptional. First time I was there, I had chicken wings and the Beef Dip. Although the wings were good, the beef dip was not; the au jus was tangier than I like, the beef a little chewy and over done, and the fries uninspiring. The second time I had the smoked pork sandwich, which was delicious. The fries were still unimpressive. The service was exquisite. The servers are attentive without being overbearing, and very knowledgeable.
Deschutes offers a tasting tray of any six of their beers for $6.50. 18 oz of beer for $6.50 is a deal wherever you are, and it gives you a chance to try a variety of their offerings without getting hammered and going bankrupt. I tried the following on a tray:
Streaking the Quad: Fruity nose with hints of citrus. Amber color. No head. There was a strong fruit taste with a malt finish. Noticeable carbonation.
Jubelale: Deep brown color and a strong malt taste. Bitter finish. Good weight. An okay beer, but nothing to write home about.
Mirror Pond Pale Ale: Golden brown color. Little head. Slight pine nose. Light pine flavour notes, good body.
Fresh Hop Mirror Pond Pale Ale: Made with hops that are used within hours of being culled from the field. It had a much stronger pine nose and flavour. Very pine-esque finish, yet still highly drinkable.
The Deschutes Brewpub
Black Butte Porter: Black as night with a good head. Coffee and slight chocolate nose. Coffee flavour. Nice finish. Strong carbonation. The body wasn’t nearly as heavy as expected. A nice beer, but probably not their best offering.
Inversion IPA: Dark Amber color. Grapefruit nose. Citrus flavour, strong acidity on tongue. Balanced carbonation. Very crisp.
Over my two trips, I tried an additional three beers in pint format.
Slam Dunkelweizen: Beautiful amber-brown colour with a tan head. Clove nose with a hint of bread. Bananas and spice upfront, moving into a bread middle and a crisp aftertaste. Little malt, surprisingly. A very nice Dunkel. I can imagine myself enjoying one of these on an autumn afternoon.
Oak Aged Graveyard Stout: Black as night. Little head. It gives off notes of oak, coffee, and caramel. Surprisingly bright flavour. Begins with bitter chocolate that gives way to coffee and sweetness on the end. Not a heavy mouthfeel.
Perhaps it is my misunderstanding, but I expect stouts to have a heavy body. Neither this nor Rogue’s Chocolate Stout had that. In fact, I found them surprisingly bright and almost cheery. It’s like expecting the Biblical Grim Reaper and instead getting Gaiman’s Death. This may be a problem with all West Coast brewers; I’ve only had one impressive West Coast Stout, the Granville Island Rogers Chocolate Stout. The rest lack heft. Perhaps this is understandable, given the West Coast’s focus on IPA and hoppy beers.
Black Butte XXII: Offered in snifters only, and it ran out after my first trip. Appears black with a light brown head. The head stays for awhile. Hints of chocolate and coffee on the nose. Chocolate and coffee in the taste. Surprisingly mellow in the flavour. Better body than the regular Black Butte Porter, with cream and weight, but still short of what I’d expect. Very warming (hello 11% ABV!). It’s almost like the Black Butte grown up, with the rough edges smoothed out. A beer to relax with, not battle against.
Given the flavour profile of the Black Butte XXII, it’s entirely appropriate that I had it with my cousin. We talked about family, responsibility, fatherhood, and other weighty subjects. The Black Butte XXII mingled into and out of my perception as the conversation went on. An adult beer for an adult conversation.
Deschutes is, in my mind, the paragon of a proper brew pub. Excellent staff, great and diverse beer selection that they work hard to highlight, and a very welcoming atmosphere. Although the food is uneven, it is still quite good, and there’s something for everyone. I am planning a return trip sometime in the future, hopefully when The Abyss is on tap. Perhaps that one will change my opinion of West Coast stouts.
My time in Portland forced me to re-evaluate how a city should be run. They’ve managed to encourage most people to use public transit or ride their bikes. There were tons of people out shopping and eating, thanks to reasonable prices not burdened by a sales tax. They have amiable people, excellent coffee houses, and the best bookstore in the world. If Canada ever decides to invade the US, I hope we annex Portland.
It also forced me to rethink how brewpubs work. A thought came to me during this vacation. All brew pubs fit on a spectrum: at one end are pubs that specialize in food and serve only common beers, and at the other end are pubs that specialize in beer with only a token amount of food. Rogue would lean towards the former, with their good food and obfuscation of their beer. Hair of the Dog (HotD) is almost the Platonic form of the latter. Deschutes falls somewhere in between. It’s an imperfect model, but one that probably represents reality fairly well. The perfect brew pub would probably have Rogue’s food with HotD beer and Deschutes’ environment and service.
Coming home, I realized that such a place exists. It’s called Portland. I encourage you to visit.